![]() 04/22/2015 at 12:48 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Since the ‘76 Volvo deal fell though and my Volvo will be officially signed over to the new owner tomorrow, I’m continuing my search for a replacement. Today we have this prime example of ‘Merican practicality.
I’m going to look at this truck in person tonight and honestly have no idea what to look for besides the usual:
Does it run?
Does it drive?
Shift smoothly?
Leaking anything?
Rust issues?
The truck in question is a 1994 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 4.3L V6 and an automatic, with only 87k miles. From my cursory reading it would seem the 4.3 is a venerable power plant and should be more than enough for anything I need it to do, while getting very ‘meh’ gas mileage. Anyone with experience have some questions I should ask? Things to look for? Price I should shoot for?
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:03 |
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Ask if they've kept up on maintenance. Like if they are greasing the joints (there are about 12 or so points that need routine greasing). Other than that if everything sounds and feels good, it probably is. These are some of the easiest (and cheapest) vehicles to maintain.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:05 |
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its pretty hard to break the 4.3L with the 4L60e.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:08 |
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My uncle has a 1994 Chevy W/T with the 4.3L and an automatic. He is closing in on 400,000 miles. Yes, 400,000. He’s replaced the water pump, alternator, brake lines and a
few
many other things over the years, but nothing major like a transmission or engine rebuild. Says a lot for keeping up on regular service intervals. Other than a bit of rust on the fenders and faded paint it is pretty solid. He says he’s going to sell it when he hits 400,000 and I’m tempted to buy it. I wouldn’t think twice about buying the one you’re looking at.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:09 |
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It's also hard to break the 4L60e with the 4.3L
Edit: Good chance the 1994 came with the 700R4, points still stand
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:09 |
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exactly.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:11 |
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Stuff to look for:
Smoke. Some 4.3 had the valve guide issues of the malaise 350 on which it’s based.
Oil in the radiator/coolant in the oil. The 90 degree V6 is not prone to the intake gasket issues of the 60 degree block but I’ve heard of cracked heads
Piston slap. For some reason, my cousin who was in a GM service department had to replace quite a few warped pistons in the mid 90s. Anything other than a whirr-whirr-whirr sewing machine noise is probably no good
Doors - make sure they open and close well. This has welded door hinges and larger doors than the 73-87 models. Saggy doors are common.
If it’s rust-free, leak-free, and runs well, I could see paying about $4000 but I’d shoot for $3000, based on what I see in the Charlotte, NC area.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:14 |
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This is a perfect work/recreation truck, if it’s not a basket case. The 4L60E had a reputation for early suicide on the heavier and more powerful models (think 350, 4x4, hoon driver) but will definitely live a long and productive life at stock 4.3 power levels. These trucks are super cheap to keep alive, parts are as close to free as you’ll find, and there’s enough room under the hood to hop inside it and work.
Make sure the under-bits aren’t all rotted. Broken leafs can be a thing if it was worked hard on rough roads and those bolts will not come out without a fight.
10/10 Would Truck
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:25 |
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Another +1 for this truck. WhiteTrashSteve hit on the major issues with this setup. One other thing, on these trucks, check the rocker panels under the door and cab corners for rust. They are really prone to it in those locations, though being an NC truck and winters down there being mild and much less road salt, they stand a good chance of being in good shape.
Personal experience - growing up we had a 1991 GMC Safari minivan with the same powertrain (4.3L V6 and 700R4 or 4L60E, cant remember) plus AWD. We put 215k miles on it, sold it to our mechanic who put another 35k on it, who then sold it to a friend from church. That guy shipped it to his parents who were missionaries in Guatemala and last we heard the old van was down there with 350k+ on the clock and still ticking. And it never needed anything besides routine maintenance. Nothing.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 13:32 |
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Well assuming not a 4x4 (no logo on the back) the trans should be good with just the 4.3L powering it (4L80E most likely, same as a 5.7 or 5.0) but check the fluid anyway. Doesnt look like its from the rust belt but still CHECK the brake lines and gas lines, all C/Ks are notorious for cheap lines and rusting through.
Let me start off that the 4.3L is a great engine but if neglected can lead to problems. They were decently powered for 80s to early 90s v6s but meant for mini vans and small SUVs so it can be a bit of a dog at times. Just side note the 4.3L is just GMs SB v8 with 2 less cylinders.
Now the 4.3L for these years uses what they call spider injectors which use plastic tips for the injectors and like to fail. But failing is a lose term for these, they will just dump fuel into the engine but these engines are brutes and will continue to run but expect to get single digits. No way of really an easy way of telling if they are going bad unless it runs rough at idle but that also could be fuel pump which are just as likely to go bad. With this though there are a ton of forms on the 4.3l just go to any S10 blazer forum and some one can point you in the right direction. Also just to let you know ‘meh’ mileage is still going to be in the upper teens, low 20s if your lucky.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:07 |
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Probably a 4L60E. Introduced in ‘93.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:09 |
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True would have to see the bolt pattern but ether way decent trans that can handle that 4.3l
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:14 |
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Thanks for the awesome info!
I’ll make sure to crawl under it a bit and check for rust issues, I’m not horribly afraid of it but it will definitely come into consideration. Good to know that the upper teens mileage should happen, that’s more than my current daily and will do just fine.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:15 |
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Awesome. I’m definitely just looking for practical and reliable on this thing.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:16 |
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Awesome. The listing has it for $2000, and the guy doesn’t seem like he wants to budge. That is under KBB value and a decent price though so I might not argue with him much.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:17 |
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Apparently it was just used around a farm for running errands and such, so I’d assume it’s been decently maintained, but I’ll make sure to ask!
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:18 |
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Awesome advice. I was hoping people would say things like this, not that it was the one model to avoid or something.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:20 |
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Thanks for the tips!
I’m pretty good mechanically so I hope nothing horrible with the motor will go by unnoticed, I’ll make sure to get him to crank it while I check for smoke though just to be sure.
He is actually asking $2000 for it right now, so I’m glad to hear it seems like it’s as much of a deal as I thought it was!
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:21 |
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Awesome!
I’ll have to get the VIN off of it tonight and see if anyone will run it for me to see where this thing is really from. He seemed to think it had been a Florida car all its life, but that doesn’t mean much for rust.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:24 |
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You’re very welcome, good sir. Yeah, old GM trucks are all about the same, regardless of year. So are old Fords and Dodges, for that matter. They’re all shit if someone beat them to death, but they’re all pretty good if they were maintained. Also, the fewer options they have, the better. Since this looks to be a W/T model, it should be pretty simple. It won’t win any races, but Chevy has built that engine for decades so it’s pretty well sorted. I like my trucks simple. That way you don’t feel bad about treating it like a truck!
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:26 |
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A few other people have referred to the W/T designation, what exactly is that?
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:44 |
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Yup. 3.08 first gear is good for getting everything going. Better than the 2.48 even though it’s not as beefy.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 14:56 |
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Wow. $2000 on the list of Craig here in Charlotte gets you the same generation truck, but with body damage or questionable modification ...
![]() 04/22/2015 at 15:01 |
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Truck has been used on a farm and still looks good, then it is probably good to go.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 15:11 |
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That was Chevy’s name for the “Work Truck” package. W/Ts got gray painted bumpers instead of chrome, a dark gray plastic grille with sealed beam headlights instead of the nice composite lights, steel wheels instead of aluminum, cheaper seats (maybe even vinyl), and they’re less likely to have AC and cruise and stuff like that. They were basically the truck that contractors and construction companies would buy for their fleets. Think of them as “ everything you need, nothing you don’t ”.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 15:21 |
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W/T is the trim level/style. The real name is Work Truck which got abbreviated to W/T. You can tell by the grills if its a W/T. Also side note the actual names of these trucks are C/K series. Silverado and Sierra were just trim levels at the time. So in your case it is a GMC C1500 W/T. Its a GMC 2wd (K for 4x4) work truck trim level. Its not truely a Sierra though most will understand what you are talking about. And Sierra wont be on the title (probably)
One head light W/T and two headlight is Cheyenne, (GMC only) Sierra, Silverado, or Scottsdale.
![]() 04/22/2015 at 15:34 |
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Haha wow. Unless the pictures I’ve gotten of this thing are from it ten years ago I’d say this is a steal!